Situated at an altitude of 5,029 metres in the interior of the Chamoli district in Himachal Pradesh, Roopkund is famous for the mysterious shallow lake of about 2 metre depth, with the edges covered with snow almost throughout the year. When the snow melts, one can see human and equine skeletal remains, sometimes with flesh attached, well preserved in the alpine conditions. The location is uninhabited and is located at an high altitude. The skeletons were discovered in the 1942 when a park ranger stumbled upon on one of it and found a mass grave of skeletons. Many theories explain the findings but none seems satisfying.

The carbon dating from samples collected at that time in the 1960s vaguely indicated that the people were from the 12th century to the 15th century. In 2004, a team of National Geographic consisting of some Indian and European scientists set off to the location to gain more information on the skeletons. The team uncovered vital clues including jewellery, skulls, bones, and a preserved body.

DNA tests on the bodies revealed that there were two groups of people, a short group (probably local porters), and a taller group who were closely related. Though the numbers were not ascertained, it is believed that three to six hundred people perished. Radiocarbon dating of the bones also accurately pinpointed the time period to be in the 9th century predating the earlier inaccurate tests.

After studying fractures in the skulls, the scientists in Hyderabad and London determined that the people died not of disease but of a sudden hailstorm. The hail sizes were as large as cricket balls and with no shelter in the open Himalayas, all of them perished. Furthermore, with the rarefied air and icy conditions, many bodies were well preserved. With landslides in the area, some of the bodies made their way into the lake. What is not determined was where the group was headed to. There is no historical evidence of any trade routes to Tibet in the area or any places of pilgrimage.

The Roopkund lake is nestled amidst panoramic mountain scenery. According to tradition, the royal family of Garhwal conducts Nanda Raj Jat to please their isht-devi, so that their kingdom becomes prosperous and the enemies defeated. Another legend has it that the royal family undertakes the pilgrimage along with their purohits to seek forgiveness from Nanda Devi, and to offer prayer to one of their ancestors who died at Roopkund along with his pregnant wife and courtesans. Hundreds of skeletons still lie scattered in and around Roopkund.

There was a lot of controversy about the mystery of Roopkund. The general prejudice against the folklore led many scholars to attribute the bones to General Zorawar Singh of Kashmir, and his men, who are said to have lost their way and perished in the high Himalayas, on their return journey after the Battle of Tibet. Along with bones of humans, bones of horses have also been found there. However, this theory does not explain the presence of female skeletons. Carbon dating of the skeletons, done by Crane and Griffin in 1958 proves that the bones are indeed between 500 to 800 years old.

During the Raj Jat even today, Itarpaii, is performed for Rajah Yashodhaval and his entourage. The legend of Nanda is an integral part of the socio-cultural milieu of Uttarakhand. Shrines of Nanda Bhagwati are scattered all over Central Himalayas. To most of the hill-folk Nanda Devi is their isht-devi, and at the same times their out-married daughter (dhyani). Her relationship to the people of Uttarakhand is somewhat similar to what Sita has to the people of Mithila. Sita is the daughter of Mithila and Nanda, also known as Gaura, is daughter of Uttarakhand.

The Nanda Devi Raj Jat pilgrimage, dating back to the 9th century, is mostly held in intervals of 12 years. The pilgrimage starts from Nauti village in Chamoli district on Tuesday and takes several days of trekking through the hilly terrain to reach the final destination of Homkund.

The image of the goddess is taken on a palanquin along with offerings taken in a procession, accompanied by barefooted devotees. It is believed that the trek signifies Nanda’s (maiden name of Parvati) journey from her maternal home to Shiva’s abode. According to the folk songs recited during the festival, King Shalipal of Chandpur Garhi laid the foundation of the tradition. He also authorized his younger brother, ‘Kunwar’ of Kansava, to represent the royal house in the yatra.

One can reach Roopkund via Kathgodam-Ranikhet- Garur-Gwaldam route. From Gwaldam it’s a long trek to Roopkund with halts in places like Debal (1,220 m), Bagargad (1,890 m), Mandali village, Lohajung pass, Wan village (2,590 m), Bedini Bugyal (3,660 m), Belpa Sulera (4,270 m) and Kelwa Binayak.

Rohit Sharma