The holy city of Varanasi is one of those Indian places which are as popular outside as they are within India. However, this city is actually an old crumbling community of the era of temples, palaces, kings, queens, courts, courtiers, dancers, musicians and courtesans. It is one of the oldest towns of India. As a centre of education also it dates back to more than 2000 years. Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon at a place called Sarnath, a few kilometres away from Varanasi. Religious scholars not only from India but also all over the world congregated here. Today the Benaras Hindu University that prides on being Asia’s biggest universitry is furthering the tradition of education.

The original name of Varanasi is Kashi. The origin goes to a Sanskrit word kas meaning light. The city being the seat of religious and spiritual learning was perhaps thought of as an elucidation of life and thereby the name. Mythology also holds that this was the original piece of land created by the creator of the universe, Lord Shiva after which the rest of the universe came into being. The name Varanasi also has its origin from the rivers Varun and Asi between which Varanasi exists. The onslaught of various cultures on the city converted its name to Benaras. Now it has officially been rechristened Varanasi.

Varanasi is famous for its spiritualism and cosmic impressions. It is a city where life and death both are held in equal veneration. People from all over the country come here in the belief that if death comes to them in this city then the doorway to the heavens awaits them. It is the ultimate achievement of moksha. Moksha or Nirvana as it is also popularly known means freedom from the perpetual cycle of birth and death and again rebirth. Another element of mystique in this city is the holy river Ganga. The Ganga, the most important river of the Indian subcontinent, is held much in reverence since it is believed that all human sins are washed off by a dip in its sanctified waters. The water may have greyed with pollution but not the belief of the people who travel sometimes thousands of miles to come to the holy city and to the holy river.

The river perhaps is the lifeline of this city. It is difficult to envisage a Varanasi without the Ganga. The narrow alleys, which pass off for streets, covered with the dirt, grime, and betel nut stains lead to the ghats or the banks of the river. These ghats are the hub of the religious ceremonies of the Hindus. From the cremation of dead and associated rites to celebration of birth and its various rituals, all are adhered to on these ghats. The city is, in fact, situated along the bank of this river and one can view the skyline of Varanasi with its old but dilapidated palatial homes and slums to the modern day buildings. The view of sunrise over the river Ganga is perhaps the most soothing and beautiful aspect of the whole trip to Varanasi. At the times of worship or puja as it is locally called, the air is resonant with the chanting of mantras and hymns. The whiff of incense and flowers, the fire and the smoke all make you realize what a small speck you are in the whole scheme of things.

However, river Ganga is only one-sided view of the religious charisma of Varanasi. The city is also known for its beautiful and old temples. In fact, Varanasi is dotted with temples and the religious activities there reach a feverish peak during the festivals. No doubt the devout Hindus consider Varanasi more as a pilgrimage place than a tourist destination.

Any visit to this place is not complete if you do not buy the world famous Benarsi saris, made of fine silk threads, intricately woven together to produce a magnificent piece of art. The age-old brocade work on the saris using delicate golden threads is finding footing in the modern day fashion industry on dresses apart from the sari, too.

During the reign of Mughal rulers dance and music flourished in this city. Some of the famous Indian musicians and dancers can trace back the history of their art to Varanasi. Even today the streets of Varanasi are home to musicians and instrument makers who specialize in their fields.

A city that mirrors India in itself can be an ideal tourist destination. If you are just a wee bit careful about yourself and your possessions you can make the trip fairly enjoyable and comfortable. Don’t trust strangers and make all arrangements of travel beforehand. Dress appropriately and modestly. Respect the traditional and cultural values of others and gain respect for yourself.

Today modernization is changing the appearance of life all over the world and Varanasi is no exception. As life becomes increasingly materialistic and struggle for survival more intense than ever, Varanasi also is slowly but surely acquiring a metropolitan look. And it has become more tourist friendly than ever.

Parul Khare