The excitement to embark on a journey again did not let me sleep well. I got up early in the morning, packed and started my journey to Tura, accompanied by a friend from Kolkota. It was a four-hour journey from Guwahati. We were welcomed by our friend Dipu who had kept everything ready, including our booking in a hotel in the town. After having a cup of tea we all decided to take a round around Tura. Dipu took us to Pelga falls located some 7 km away from Tura town.

The falls with clear and clean water is beautiful. Many young boys and girls were enjoying the water near the falls, some were even dancing and singing. The atmosphere was quite romantic. I insisted on crossing the bamboo bridge across the Pelga falls. The bridge was built by the local Garo people and is used to go to the local market to sell and buy useful commodities of daily use. I saw some ladies carrying big bags of betel nuts which were picked up from the other village across the falls. As we were to leave Pelga falls, my friend told me about a special fish, considered to be very dangerous by the Garo people. Its name is electric eel and its fishing was strictly prohibited in the falls.

We headed towards our hotel when the sun was setting in the evening sky. On the way we met our tour guide Bikramjit A Sangma who invited us for a cup of tea at his home. He has a good collection of art, craft, fossils, musical instruments, coins, etc. Being an art teacher himself, Bikramjit has tried to preserve the heritage of the Garo people in whatever small way he can. As we were about to leave his house, suddenly my eyes fell on a piece of cloth displayed on the wall. My friend said it is a piece of blanket made out of the bark of a tree.

There is a village called Rongsugal in Tura where the people still use to make such blankets by hammering the bark until the piece becomes soft to use. To make the blanket is very hard and time consuming but still it is worth doing because that way they are keeping themselves close to nature and preserving an age-old tradition. To sew the blanket the people use thread made out of bamboo and a needle made of deer horn. My friend offered me a small piece of blanket as a token of love. To me, it was one of the most valuable gifts that I have ever had.

The next day we started early morning around 5 am from Tura to Balpakram, with food, water and other useful commodities. We had to stop in the forest office in Baghmara to get the restricted area permit. We stayed in Baghmara forest IB for the night. I knew my two-night stay at the IB was going to be full of little surprises. One of the first things that struck me about the place was the quietness. After a tired journey from Tura, it was a relief. I tiptoed out of my room, in keeping with the silence that pervaded the crisp night air and took a stroll near the IB. My room was a cosy ensemble of wooden furniture and a cosy bed. Post-dinner as I drifted off to sleep, I heard an owl calling out from the forest nearby.

The next day we started our journey early. The road condition was poor but my friend Tinku took all the pain to drive us to the Balpakaram National Park. After reaching Balpakaram I felt like, I was in a different world free from pollution. We all became speechless because there was so much to see and feel about the place. The Balpakaram National Park was inaugurated by former Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi on December 27, 1987. The National Park covers an area of 220 sq km. There are many legends and etymological concepts about the origin of the word ‘Balpakaram’. It stands at the height of 3,000 ft above sea level. As we went early in the morning, the rays of the sun fell right up to the Chitmang hills. The sunset was also beautiful and breathtaking. Away from human habitations, we were walking through lush green forest and a large bed of rock. Each fauna sighting was a new gift but the dominant experience is that of the park itself. Balpakaram is a treasure of flora and fauna. It is also the home to the pitcher plant (Nepthanthes khasiana) and the sundew plant. Various kinds of orchids are also found here. Nature has bestowed generous abundance with an excellent wealth and unique beauty to the wilderness of Balpakaram. Among the fauna, all kinds of cats from the Royal Bengal tiger, the clouded leopard, leopard cat, elephant, samba deer, bison, etc are also found in Garo hills. Balpakaram has also various species of birds and reptiles.

Tura is also a land of caves and my journey would be incomplete if I do not mention about the Siju caves. The Siju cave is located near the Naphak Lake. It is 400 metres in length. It is the most rich and unique cave in Asia. Bats are commonly found inside the cave. The cave was so dark that the eyes of the bats were the only things we could see.

The Simsang river is the longest river which originates from Nokrek mountain and runs from the East Garo hills towards South Garo hills. The rivers have many deep pools and waterfalls.

Towards the end of my journey, it was hard for me to say ‘goodbye’ to such a place full of wonder but every good things must come to an end. So did my journey ended, with a promise of my friend Abhra to take me to another place the next time around. On a personal note, there are a few experiences in life that remains indelibly etched in one’s mind and heart.

Rashmi Das