Less than an hour’s drive separates the bustling city of Guwahati from Pobitora, a pristine jungle terrain teeming with wildlife. Surprising as it might be for those habituated to the daily grind of any city life but Guwahati is a welcome exception in that vast expanses of forests — much of it degraded and fragmented now — still dot the city’s landscape and shelter a sizeable wildlife population including mega fauna such as leopards and elephants. Even the tiger could be seen in the city’s forests till a couple of decades back. The city has about a dozen reserve forests and a wildlife sanctuary (Amchang sanctuary) right within its municipal limits. And Pobitora happens to fall just on the city outskirts, nestled under the green hills of Mayong — the ancient seat of sorcery and magic and a major archaeological site.

The silence of the forest was shattered by the flapping wings of thousands of birds which burst into the sky from the beel, drawing distinct patterns against the azure backdrop. The patterns kept on melting and changing from one shape into another before the winged seraphs settled onto another water body — some distance away from the intruding humans on elephant back. It was a breathtaking spectacle, and the perfect icing on the cake following some splendid views of the rhino and the buffalo from close proximity almost immediately after we embarked on the safari.

Viewing wildlife in Pobitora is much easier than in many other forests of the state. It is because a large part of this little sanctuary is open grassland where the rhino is ubiquitous and the buffalo too has a visible presence. Its rhino density is very high and the animals appear from almost everywhere. Its rich avifauna is also easy to locate as they can invariably be found in the wetlands that dot the sanctuary.

As we made our way back, the rhinos and the buffaloes kept on emerging here and there. Soon we crossed the grassland and were passing through the wooded forest. A couple of rooting wild boars made a sudden appearance only to disappear in seconds before we could have a good view. We looked hard for the elusive leopard but lady luck was in no mood to oblige us. A laconic monitor lizard that seemed unperturbed even by the approaching elephants was the only other animal we saw.

The tantric magic of Mayong may be dying but not the magic of Pobitora. Rather, its beguiling charm is enticing more and more nature-lovers into its sylvan folds than ever before. Pobitora’s stature is growing and now it is among the most sought-after wildlife destinations of Assam. The fact that it has an ambience similar to Kaziranga’s and encountering the rhino is a certainty here, has helped its reputation to spread.

A tiny wonderland of nature, Pobitora’s wealth in terms of biodiversity belies its small size. Among the last strongholds of the one-horned rhino, Pobitora shelters an incredible 84 numbers within its 38.8 sq km area. It is also home to 23 other mammals including the leopard, leopard cat, fishing cat, jungle cat, wild boar, pangolin, etc. Twenty-seven species of reptiles including the python, monitor lizard, etc, add to its wildlife diversity. Its avifauna is most impressive with 375 species of birds recorded so far.

An island amidst thickly-populated human settlements, Pobitora faces a number of serious problems which, if left unaddressed, could jeopardize its future survival. Excessive livestock grazing, encroachment, flood, weed invasion, etc, have been some of the pressing concerns. Anthropogenic pressures apart, growing industrial activities, especially coke and brick kilns, in its periphery has emerged as a major worry.

The developments pose a danger to both habitat and wildlife, with migratory birds being the most likely to be the first among the affected. Pobitora’s small size means that any adverse effects of industrial pollution would be quick and more severe. Grassland and woodland apart, the sanctuary has several wetlands that play host to a diverse and large assemblage of birds, especially during the winter when large congregations of migratory birds arrive. These water bodies are at risk of bearing the brunt of pollution.

Together with Mayong, the traditional seat of the occult and also an archaeological treasure-trove, Pobitora offers tremendous prospects for tourism in the area. The government would do well to recognize this potential and accord due thrust on promoting eco-friendly and sustainable tourism through better infrastructure and publicity. At the same time, the threats looming over the sanctuary must be addressed.

sivathakur@gmail.com

Sivasish Thakur